Harpers Ferry to Duncannon: Into Pennsylvania and the Second Half

Not at all random thought of the day:  

What has taken place during the last two weeks in south Louisiana has been nothing short of unprecedented.  To all of you who have been affected, please stay strong.  You will get through this.  You are in my thoughts and in my prayers.

There are many fantastic people and organizations out there ready to lend a hand.  I encourage everyone to do what they can to help.  Thank you.

Ok. As best we can, onto the update.

Disclaimer:  I shaved the epic hiker beard.  I have my reasons.

1. It’s hot.  I live outside.  

2. I hate ticks. I don’t know if I’ve mentioned this, but I hate ticks.  I would rather give a black bear a hug than be host to one of these demon bugs.  If one got into the beard, there’s no way I would find it.  

3.  I’m starting to get panicked looks from people when I set my pack down outside a crowded WalMart (actually, this one was kind of fun).

Out of Harpers Ferry, I crossed the Potomac River and hiked into Maryland.  Tons of Revolutionary and Civil war era history here, uncluding Maryland’s version of the Washington Monument.

Being another short section, it was just a couple days through MD.  I would cross the Mason-Dixon line into Pennsylvania!  Funny, it took 40 days to get through VA…and now I’ve been in 4 states in 5 days.

PA offered pine forests and lots of rocks.  I’ll be getting into more rugged terrain the further north I walk.

I also crossed (officially this time) the half way marker!

Just into PA, there’s a great section of farmland through Cumberland Valley.  Gorgeous scenery.  And it’s always nice to get out of the trees for a bit.

I made a few more friends

 Into Duncannon to stay the night at the ‘famous’ Doyle Hotel.  How can I describe this place…a ‘must stop’ for weary thru-hikers.  An institution if you will.  Great owners, great bar, great burgers.  

The rooms…well, let’s just say they are sufficient for someone who lives outside or needs to hide out from the authorities.  Think if Tyler Durden turned his house from Fight Club into a hostel.  That’s pretty close.

A dingy place, sure, but it was our dingy place.  And it was one of the best stops on the trail.  Thank you Pat and Vickey for your hospitality.

Unfortunately, I’ve gotten word that The Doyle may be sold to the local trail club and an investment group to be renovated into a B&B.  Here’s to hoping that this spot can stay friendly (and affordable) to the many hikers who pass through.

The summer heat is in full effect and PA is known for being rocky, hot, and dry…

SFSSF:

Miles: 1166.4

Mi/Day: 13.4

Highest Elevation: 1089.1 (3 Points)

Mountains: 111 (Yes, I counted them!)

Pop Tarts: 50

Triple Doubles: 1

Waynesboro to Harpers Ferry: The Shenandoahs and Goodbye to Virginia

The trail now led into Shenandoah National Park, and I was looking to wrap up the longest state I’d hike through.
SNP exists along the Blue Ridge Mountains of northern Virginia.  Tracing it’s west side lies the Shenandoah River Valley, and to it’s east, the hills of the Peidmont.  Right along the middle is drawn a Sunday-driver’s dream, the Skyline Drive.

The second National Park along the AT, this park compares interestingly to The Smokies.  Similar in that it contains an enormous amount of protected wilderness.  Wildlife everywhere.  In fact, I doubt I’ll encounter another area with such density and variety of wild animals.

(I’ll get this out of the way here:  1. Yes, I saw more bears.  So many, I stopped counting.  2. It was awesome.  3. No, I didn’t get eaten yet.)

The park is different in that it has the Skyline Drive.  You see, years ago, the Skyline actually was the AT.  Then someone decided (thankfully) that a 100 mile roadwalk sucks, and the trail was moved. However, the AT still crosses the Skyline a bazillion times.  Thus creating a relatively flat ridgeline hike where a hiker has access to all the amenities a casual visitor driving through would have.  

In other words, I just entered easy mode.

Short climbs and decents.  Miles of flat, soft ground.  Easy access to restaurants, gas stations, and campgrounds.  I wasn’t complaining.

(Seriously, the trail at times is this manicured. At this point, I thought I was lost.)

Unfortunately, I had to compete with some rain the first few days, but there were great views of the surrounding areas.  The camps each night were really nice.  And having easy access to food that I didn’t have to cook or carry, well…

After five days I’d have to leave the ‘accomodations’ of SNP and move on.  Exiting the park, I was into the town of Front Royal, VA.  There, I stayed at the amazing Mountain Home ‘Cabbin’.

After stopping in Front Royal, I hit another milestone.  I have now hiked 1000 miles!

The town of Harpers Ferry wasn’t far away now.  Harpers is pretty significant to AT thru-hikers as the trail (which goes through town) is considered the half-way point.  It doesn’t exactly bisect the trail’s length, but exists as the closest town to the official half-way point (which technically varies year to year with changes to the trail).  But, before I could get to my next stop, I’d have to get through a 15 mile section of trail named the Roller Coaster.

Every hiker knows the Roller Coaster.  You hear about it back in Georgia.  Along with the White Mountains, it’s considered a section of trail we could term an ‘ass kicker’. 

And it certainly lived up to its billing.  A whole day of straight up, then straight down… 12 times.  For all the easy-mode, flat trail I got in SNP, this section made up for it!

Another day and I was over the Shenandoah River and into Harpers Ferry, WV.  After 550 miles, goodbye Virginia!

Sitting on the convergence of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers, there is a ton of civil war era history in this small town.  It is also home to the ATC headquarters.  It was nice to stop in and see all of the AT history.

I stopped in Harpers, then headed on into Maryland towards the Mason-Dixon line.  Very soon I’d say goodbye to The South and head into Pennsylvania, and the second half of my journey!
SFSSF:

Miles: 1032.2

Miles/Day:  13.2

Highest Elevation:  3587′ (Hightop Mountain)

Mountains:  Really, next time

Pop Tarts:  42

Triple Doubles:  1